Other tap water may contain trace amounts of ammonia or asbestos that can wreak havoc on delicate fish. Another issue with using municipal tap water for a fish tank is that it often contains chlorine, which many public water facilities use as a decontaminant. Chlorine is toxic to fish , and it also kills good and bad bacteria indiscriminately. Chlorinated aquarium water will kill the good bacteria that collect on your aquarium filter to break down the toxic ammonia and nitrite found in fish waste.
If your home has well water, the water will not contain chlorine. But using well water for a fish tank can present several other issues. Unlike municipal water, well water is unregulated.
Depending on where you live, well water could contain high concentrations of any number of different contaminants. Agricultural runoff could introduce nitrates and coliform bacteria from fertilizer into your water — or runoff from an industrial plant could introduce volatile organic compounds VOCs , like the chemicals found in herbicides, pesticides, paints and solvents.
Well water can also vary in its pH and hardness, and it usually contains little oxygen , so it will require aeration before fish can safely live in it.
Not exactly. Bottled water is typically either well water, filtered water or spring water. It may have gone through filters that remove some of its beneficial components, or it may have extra minerals that are unhealthy for fish. You would need to test and adjust it before using it in your tank. Some bottled water still contains high levels of chlorine that you will need to remove before using the water in your aquarium.
However, rainwater tends to have very low mineral content, and its pH can vary. So you would need to test and treat the rainwater before using it for your fish. Rainwater can also easily become polluted with contaminants in the atmosphere. If pollution from nearby factories — or from the chemicals, smoke and exhaust of everyday urban life — is suspended in the air, raindrops can absorb that pollution as they fall. Rainwater that lands on the roof before collection can also pick up asbestos from the shingles.
Rainwater also presents the problems of availability and storage. If you live in an arid climate, rainwater may not always be readily available. Distilled water is affordable, available at many stores and free from most contaminants. When coloured up, Melanotaenia boesemanni is one of the most colourful fish in the world, being half bright blue and half-bright yellow. Danios do well in hard water and goldfish do too. The Florida Flagfish is a lovely temperate fish which appreciates hard, unheated water.
The Redtail Splitfin, Xenotoca eiseni is another temperate, hard water fish which is also a livebearer. Hundreds of widely available fish species will also be happy now in hard water, due to generations of captive breeding. A classic example is the Angelfish, which naturally occurs in the soft waters of the Amazon basin. There pH rarely rises above six, but tank bred fish in aquariums will be happy in a pH right up to 8.
The same can be said for many species including most tetras, barbs, gouramies. Even German-bred Discus, famous for their love of soft water in the wild, will now be happy in higher pH and hardness levels. To successfully maintain a healthy tank, you need to understand some basic fish tank water chemistry. This will help your fish to not only survive but thrive!
Understanding water chemistry basics and regular testing are imperative. Remember, at Bob's Tropical Fish we offer professional water testing free of charge any time you need it. As part of your initial set up, you might want to purchase kits to test for the following:. Testing for ammonia is a must. Ammonia will be elevated during the startup cycle in a new tank. Ammonia can also be elevated in mature tanks if the water is not changed regularly, filters are not kept clean, if the tank is overstocked, or if medication is used that disrupts the biological cycle.
In an established tank, an ammonia test should be performed and recorded in a log once a month. Anytime you have sick fish, or a fish death, you should immediately test for ammonia. Ammonia is extremely toxic to fish and any detectable amount of ammonia should be addressed swiftly.
During the startup of a new tank, nitrite levels will soar and can stress or kill fish. But even after an aquarium is initially "cycled," it is not unusual to go through mini-cycles from time to time.
For that reason, include nitrite testing as part of your monthly testing routine. Any elevation of nitrite levels is a red flag that indicates a problem brewing in the tank. If a fish is ill, or dies, it's wise to test for nitrite to ensure it is not contributing to the problem.
The only way to reduce elevated nitrite levels quickly is via water changes. Although nitrates are not as toxic as ammonia or nitrites, they must be monitored to avoid stressing your fish. Nitrates can also be a source of algae problems.
Nitrates will rise over time and can only be eliminated via water changes. Monthly tests are important - particularly when breeding fish, as young fish are more sensitive to nitrates than adult fish. Test monthly and keep levels low to ensure a healthy tank. This cycle usually takes from weeks to complete and will happen in all new aquariums. You could speed up the process by using the filter material or gravel from an established tank.
Even then it could still take a few weeks for the tank to cycle. This is the cycle during which ammonia is converted to nitrites and nitrites are converted to nitrates. Aside from new tank syndrome, pH is the most frequent cause of fish stress, which can ultimately lead to fish loss.
Unfortunately, it is usually the most overlooked parameter. Fish cannot tolerate sudden changes in pH. Even a change of 0. Know the pH of your fish shop's water, as well as your own, so you can be acclimate new fish properly. Keep in mind that if you use tap water, it has dissolved gasses from being under pressure.
Let it sit overnight before testing the pH. Fish and plant waste, water evaporation, water addition, and water hardness will all contribute to changes in the pH. As a rule of thumb, pH in an established tank should be tested once a month, and any time there is a fish death or illness.
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